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Hello boardroom people, i am wanting to buy a mitsu evo 9/8 real soon, so could anyone advise me on a good starting place to purchase one second hand with not many km oin the clock?, i have looked on gulf news on classifeds but doesnt seem to be many there, one or two if im lucky. Perhaps anyone on this board wanting to sell one? something with max 40km on the clock. I know the showroom price is around 130k-135k for GSR, so does anybody know how much i a used one with the above mentioned use would be?. Thank you for any advice you may give.

Cant help you on where to buy one - but as an owner of an Evo 8 - you will not regret it. They are amazing cars.

From what I have heard, trying to find a decent, non-thrashed and modded, second-hand Evo is like trying to find ROCKING HORSE SHIT!

So, if you want to buy second-hand, be prepared. These cars will most probably have been used and abused, above and beyound what you wouls normally expect.

boomtown, are you bored of yours and want to sell to me?

Actually I am selling mine. But it won't do you any good Im selling mine in Australia and moving to Dubai where I will probably buy another one - Im thinking about importing an AMS tuned evo from the US.

But I need to carefully research importing before I go down that route to see how hard it is to bring in a heavily modded car.

cool, wen are you planning on buyin in the UAE, maybe we could help each other out huh?

Hi there mate, as yorky said...its next to impossible to find a VGC second hand Evo here, and even if you do....the car would certainly be abused! because Evo is so fantastic car that no one would sell it unless that person have (don't mind this word) raped that car inside-out!!!!
So best option would certainly be new...anyways it would jus be couple'a grands more...so new Evo would atleast be your peace of mind eih
best of luck for Evo

hmmm I wont be in the market for at least six months so don't know if that is very helpful. but if you have any questions about evos in general i am happy to answer or point you in the right direction.

generally speaking they are pretty tough cars and can take a surprising amount of abuse as long as there are service records (from someone reputable - you can destroy a transfer case very fast if you put in the wrong fluids).

of course if reliability is your number 1 concern - buy new and keep it stock or very close to stock.

boomtown, don't be surprised if the Evo in stock trim doesn't perform as well as it should here. Don't get me wrong, the car is great but only under certain conditions - ie not as a daily driver.

Not entirely sure what you are referring to. I have used one as a daily for almost two years - including 40 degree heat.

Mine isnt really stock anymore and I understand that tuners in the UAE are not always reliable - but there are ways around that problem (although I am vaguely worried about finding someone competent to replace clutches which are a pain because you have to drop the gearbox).

I am assuming that 98+ RON is freely available. Is there something else I should take into consideration?

boomtown wrote::?:

Not entirely sure what you are referring to. I have used one as a daily for almost two years - including 40 degree heat.

Mine isnt really stock anymore and I understand that tuners in the UAE are not always reliable - but there are ways around that problem (although I am vaguely worried about finding someone competent to replace clutches which are a pain because you have to drop the gearbox).

I am assuming that 98+ RON is freely available. Is there something else I should take into consideration?

What XRW-147 is saying, is that becareful for what you want to buy. The Evo could be a fast car on the track, but remember, are YOU driving it on the track? 99% of you're driving will be on the roads, so you may not fully appreciate what the car is capable of. Note, straight line speed is nothing new, you can get an old pontiac V8 with 300+bhp and 450+Trq and give you speed, but not the handling

Am i right XRW-147? is this the point?

One more note, why are you asking on the fuel oct of 98+? when you say that, it means you aim to run more boost than stock, safely? wrong!!!!

98+Ron to me means someone who is going to start increasing boost AND adjust the air/fuel ratio AND ignition timing (advanced with 98+ ron fuel). Do you have a wideband o2 sensor? do you have an aftermarket CPU that controlls timing and displays timing in load vs rpms? if not, then don't touch the boost pressure, unless you have a fat wallet and prepare to look for a salvaged block/engine locally.

Good guess

On my current Evo Im running a Motec M800 PNP peaking at 24 psi with about 205kw@wheels. The car runs 12.9 @ 107 mph down the quarter mile.

24psi on 98 RON?

I would LOVE to see you'e EGT's and tell me what is you're timing like.....

hosrom_951 wrote:Am i right XRW-147? is this the point?

On the money mate.

hosrom_951 wrote:24psi on 98 RON?

I would LOVE to see you'e EGT's and tell me what is you're timing like.....

Matey, back in Aust I ran 26psi on 98ron - no probs at all.

boomtown wrote:Good guess

On my current Evo Im running a Motec M800 PNP peaking at 24 psi with about 205kw@wheels. The car runs 12.9 @ 107 mph down the quarter mile.

Motec Pryde brother.

Cheers XRW

EGTs are flat at 11.5 once it comes on load. Ill see if I can find the dyno. Keep in mind modern Evos run 18psi dead stock.

And to be strictly fair - its only 24 psi in 1st gear where its only loaded for 2 seconds at the most. I drop it 1 psi per gear so by the time you hit 5th its only 19psi because the engine is under load for so much longer.

*Edit* When I said EGTs above I meant AFRs.... EGTs are in the 750 - 800 range.

boomtown wrote:Cheers XRW

EGTs are flat at 11.5 once it comes on load. Ill see if I can find the dyno. Keep in mind modern Evos run 18psi dead stock.

And to be strictly fair - its only 24 psi in 1st gear where its only loaded for 2 seconds at the most. I drop it 1 psi per gear so by the time you hit 5th its only 19psi because the engine is under load for so much longer.

*Edit* When I said EGTs above I meant AFRs.... EGTs are in the 750 - 800 range.

AFR is rich

750-800 is that C or F ?

And by the way, in a 5 speed transmission, the 4th gear is where the highest load is.

Its a street car 11.5 leaves headroom Im not chasing stoich.

EGTs are in C and thats a peak figure under maximum load (ie momentary) not an operating range.

Engine stress is not only a function of load but also time on load. Its loaded a lot longer WOT in 5th than WOT in 4th because you have to fight that wall of air.

I really understand the value of buying brand new and to be honest i want to. The Mitsubishi Al Futtaim dealer in deira stated that the EVO GSR (the only option they provide) 1. doesnt have a demo model to drive, 2. doesnt come with any warranty 3. They dont sell 2nd hand Mitsubishi cars either. So my question is, is it not strange that they do not provide Warranty? I also would find it hard to buy a car without driving one first, as much as i kno the history and good reviews it has. I also work for Mitsubishi Corporation, but not the Motors section, but the Evo salesman said he could not give an Official discount, he said he could do a 2k aed off though!?! Last but not least is the insurance, ive heard it could be better buying new from dealer as insurance is lower, im 25 with one years no claims from the UK, would the insurance burn holes in my pockets. I saw a Silver EVO today in Deira and i just cant wait much longer. Thanks

Ive been through this in Australia. Go into the dealer and offer to purchase the vehicle conditional on a short test drive. Meaning you sign up all the paperwork beforehand and will buy the car if it meets your expectations on the short drive. You need to show them that you are serious and not a joy rider.

Also its common for one of the managers to own one - ask if you can take the manager's car for a drive.

Be warned - the suspension is very hard compared to other factory cars and you will feel every bump and ripple in the road. Don't buy the car if comfort is your no. 1 thing - it is a very focused track weapon not a cruiser.

As far as warranty goes - its really simple. A warranty is an insurance policy in case something goes wrong. Insurance policies cost money depending on the likelihood of the risk and the cost of repairing the damage if the risk occurs. The cars are very well built and I have never had any warranty work done on mine. That doesn't mean that Im not happy to have a warranty. As an indication of how much faith Mitsubishi puts in its cars here - my E8 has a 100,000 5 year warranty with a 160,000 10 year drivetrain warranty. Ive never heard of a car with a 10 year warranty before....

But if they are going to sell you a car without a warranty - they are selling it to you without the insurance policy. Which means that they are saving themselves the value of that insurance policy. Which means that you should be getting the car for much cheaper as a result because their costs are lower.

What sort of price are they offering? It would be useful to compare it with prices in the UK / US.

As far as not being able to negotiate - thats BS. Dealers try that all over the world. Make them a sensible offer and they will soon change their mind. It took me a month to negotiate the purchase of my car and about 10 phone calls - but I eventually got it for the equivalent of 20,000 AED less than the original asking price. And I know people that paid 30,000 AED more than me because they didn't negotiate properly with the dealership. Dealers are particularly keen to make sales towards the end of the month when they realise they haven't made their monthly sales target yet.

blangs wrote:I really understand the value of buying brand new and to be honest i want to. The Mitsubishi Al Futtaim dealer in deira stated that the EVO GSR (the only option they provide) 1. doesnt have a demo model to drive, 2. doesnt come with any warranty 3. They dont sell 2nd hand Mitsubishi cars either. So my question is, is it not strange that they do not provide Warranty? I also would find it hard to buy a car without driving one first, as much as i kno the history and good reviews it has. I also work for Mitsubishi Corporation, but not the Motors section, but the Evo salesman said he could not give an Official discount, he said he could do a 2k aed off though!?! Last but not least is the insurance, ive heard it could be better buying new from dealer as insurance is lower, im 25 with one years no claims from the UK, would the insurance burn holes in my pockets. I saw a Silver EVO today in Deira and i just cant wait much longer. Thanks

He started at 132k and dropped 2k off for unoffical Mitsubishi company gratuity, so 130k AED no warranty, or demo.

blangs wrote:I really understand the value of buying brand new and to be honest i want to. The Mitsubishi Al Futtaim dealer in deira

Al Habtoor

YES, blangs stands corrected

boomtown wrote:Its a street car 11.5 leaves headroom Im not chasing stoich.

EGTs are in C and thats a peak figure under maximum load (ie momentary) not an operating range.

Engine stress is not only a function of load but also time on load. Its loaded a lot longer WOT in 5th than WOT in 4th because you have to fight that wall of air.

Runing a tad rich is much better than running lean, unless you like to blow a head gasket, or worse. AFR/Timiming comtrol is very anal, and while you would be making for toqrue with that AFR, you are loosing out to HP, since HP likes a solid 12.5-12.7. And AFR doesn't matter if it is a street car or a track car, timing and fuel octane comes in if you are talking street vs track.

You got the engine stress idea all wrong, if "air' was a factor, then i wonder how do they tune cars on dyno's (cars are not moving and the fan blows in 30mph air just to keep things cool)........

Engine STRESS has nothing to do with what you said, the stresses an engine see's are things that effect engine performance AFTER tuning, such as hot climate, exhaust backpressure, retard timing, ac......

Engine LOADS is what you use in tuning, stress is/are factors that an engine see's AFTER tuning is set/load determined.

Note: While runing rich is safer than runing lean, runing rich has two side effects.

- Runing rich creates extra carbon deposits in the chambers, and with a fast moving piston going up and down, a carbon deposit will get smuged between the rings/piston and block causing damage.

-Runing rich also washes away any oil left over from the piston rings on the cylinder walls, causing metal on metal contact. Did you ever ask you'reself why are there two compression rings and one OIL SCRAPPER ring?

Don't get me wrong, i am not stating 'who knows more' in this thread, just stating the facts. Do you mind telling me where did you get the ECu from, and who did the vehicle wiring, as well as where did you get the WBO2 sensor, who welded it in for you and where is it placed?

Coul you also tell em how much total timing you have? could you show me the tming table?

right well, they have offered me for 129k, for mitsu staff.. Yeah right, they are sooo tight!

hosrom_951 wrote:

boomtown wrote:Its a street car 11.5 leaves headroom Im not chasing stoich.

EGTs are in C and thats a peak figure under maximum load (ie momentary) not an operating range.

Engine stress is not only a function of load but also time on load. Its loaded a lot longer WOT in 5th than WOT in 4th because you have to fight that wall of air.

Runing a tad rich is much better than running lean, unless you like to blow a head gasket, or worse. AFR/Timiming comtrol is very anal, and while you would be making for toqrue with that AFR, you are loosing out to HP, since HP likes a solid 12.5-12.7. And AFR doesn't matter if it is a street car or a track car, timing and fuel octane comes in if you are talking street vs track.

You got the engine stress idea all wrong, if "air' was a factor, then i wonder how do they tune cars on dyno's (cars are not moving and the fan blows in 30mph air just to keep things cool)........

Engine STRESS has nothing to do with what you said, the stresses an engine see's are things that effect engine performance AFTER tuning, such as hot climate, exhaust backpressure, retard timing, ac......

Engine LOADS is what you use in tuning, stress is/are factors that an engine see's AFTER tuning is set/load determined.

Note: While runing rich is safer than runing lean, runing rich has two side effects.

- Runing rich creates extra carbon deposits in the chambers, and with a fast moving piston going up and down, a carbon deposit will get smuged between the rings/piston and block causing damage.

-Runing rich also washes away any oil left over from the piston rings on the cylinder walls, causing metal on metal contact. Did you ever ask you'reself why are there two compression rings and one OIL SCRAPPER ring?

Don't get me wrong, i am not stating 'who knows more' in this thread, just stating the facts. Do you mind telling me where did you get the ECu from, and who did the vehicle wiring, as well as where did you get the WBO2 sensor, who welded it in for you and where is it placed?

Coul you also tell em how much total timing you have? could you show me the tming table?

Im not claiming to be a tuner. The car is tuned by the Motec principal dealer for my area who has been around for a long time. And frankly - if the engine goes pop he is the one that will have to rebuild it. So Im happy to let him pick the AFRs Incidentally he also exports Motecs to the Middle East.

That being said (and I dont know if this is relevant) octane degrades rapidly - you never know how fresh the fuel is that you are getting. The 100 octane that we get from Shell goes off really fast - under a week sitting in the tank of your car. So that may be a consideration re: the AFRs.

Incidentally Evos run as low as 10.5 from factory.

As far as stress goes - Im talking about time under load. In first gear when Im running 24 psi the engine is under full load for probably a second - two max. In fifth gear on a top speed run it can be under full load for 30 seconds or longer - the car really starts to struggle over 250kmh.

And Im aware that typically 4th gear has a ratio of 1.0 to the engine - but surely load is even greater in 5th with a ratio of something like 0.89.

No wiring is required - its a pnp unit that just plugs straight into the factory loom. The MAP sensor (I assume that is what you are referring to) is on the pipe that runs from the IC to the throttle body shortly before the throttle body. My tuner welded it on and did a pretty good job. My welding skills are well yeah I need more practise.

I can't show you the maps because I have deliberately never logged into my ecu because I want to make sure no one can say that I played with the maps in the unlikely event it does go pop.

Here is a lesson for you....

Innovative Motorsports, a worldwide company that manufactures widebands, had one of their tech guys talk about running rich:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/rich.php

Read that, it will make you re-consider

Secondly, to be very honest with you? i do NOT trust anyone here, since the timing/fuel maps are all generally based, theyr do NOT know that every engine varies. NO two cars are the same, even if you have an EVo chassis number xxx067 and you get the xxx068 chassis EVO, that engine would be different. We are talking minor, but it is these minor differences that make or break and engine.

Secondly, did you go to the dyno? did the 'tuner' sit for 8+ hours and adjusted the maps? i don't think so....

I gained 137ft-lbs in torque in my car by adjusting the timing, but only AFTER 6 hours on the dynojet. Costed me over Dhs 2,000 just for the dyno runs, but when i gained that much torque, and 89% of that torque came on 300rpms sooner, the car just pulls like a train from 2,400rpms onwards.

Now, i am sure i could really squeeze things, and really get into the timing, but rule of thumb is ' the higher the performance you want, the smaller the window of reliability gets'. Hence why F1 cars are fighting over milligrames to shave off, to gain 0.1% power, and have an engine fail just seconds after a race.........

It's you're money, you're car and you're time.....i screwed up big time and threw a rod out of the block, causing a 8" hole in the block, due to my tuning mistakes, but instead of being all pissed off about it, i took it as a learning curve and started fresh and learned a LOT.

any chance of a spin in your badboy?

blangs wrote:any chance of a spin in your badboy?

Being sarcastic doesn't help much here, since you completely missed my point.

How many engines did you destroy in you're life from finding it's limits?